12/19/2023 0 Comments Tiltshift lensThe hot glue is for expediency if, after some experimenting, you think you’ll use this lens setup often, I recommend finding something sturdier than hot glue and cardboard to hold it together. Then I hot-glued the parts together, body cap into ring, and ring, black side in, onto bellows (Figure 7). Although not shown here, it helps to paint one side of the cardboard black, to cut down light refraction inside the bellows. To do this, I cut a ring out of cardboard with the inner circle the same circumference as the body cap and the outside matching the bottom of the plunger (Figure 6). If you’re really enterprising you could buy a bayonet adapter for the lens you’re using, attach it to the plunger bellows, and then screw your lens onto that when needed. The plunger bellows should fit tightly to the lens. Keep holding onto the lens, though don’t expect the rubber to hold so tight that you can let go.įigure 5. I even cut grooves in the rubber to let me screw the precious lens into place. Don’t worry about gluing the lens down yet, but the hole should be tight enough so the lens fits snugly (Figure 5). Go ahead and stick your lens onto the plunger to see if it fits, and trim the rubber as necessary. A humble plunger becomes the camera bellows. Cut a hole in the top of the plunger, where the stick is (Figure 4), making it just large enough to stretch around the base of your lens (or make it a bit smaller and enlarge it later).įigure 4. The plunger will act as a flexible camera bellows, allowing us to tilt and shift the lens to our heart’s desire. The hacked lens begins with a standard plastic body cap. Using a rotary tool or hobby knife, hollow out the middle of the camera body cap (Figure 2), then grind or file it down smooth, so there are no rough spots or burrs (Figure 3).įigure 2. If you want a more robust setup, skip the glue and attach the pieces with small hobby nuts and bolts. You need to bond the body cap to the cardboard/plastic and the cardboard/plastic to the plunger rubber. They’re the perfect way to attach your camera to your own hacked-lens creations, and they’re also cheap. Stiff cardboard (non-corrugated) or stiff, black plastic. Any will do, so long as it’s flexible and not too large. Millions of these were manufactured, and eBay is full of good deals on them. I used an old Carl Zeiss made for the now-obsolete Pentacon 6 camera format. SLR (single-lens reflex) or DSLR (digital SLR) camera body with interchangeable lens mount. (You could use this hack to mount a 35mm lens on a 35mm camera, but it would only work with a macro lens, for very close objects.) Materials The oversized lens gives you extra room to move and distort the image that lands on the film or CCD, while still filling the frame. With 35mm or APS format digital SLR cameras, you’ll need a lens built for 6×6 film or larger. For example, I used a 6×6 lens (designed for 6cm film) to make a tilt-shift lens for a 35mm camera body. To build your own tilt-shift lens, you start with a spare lens that’s built for a film format larger than that of the camera you’ll use the lens on. Fortunately, building your own tilt-shift lens is easy, and doing so will open up a remarkable array of creative optical effects. Tilt-shift lenses cost $1,000-plus, which is far beyond what most photographers will pay to experiment. This image was captured with a tilt-shift lens. Art and portrait photographers use them to control exactly where the focus falls (Figure 1).įigure 1. Aerial photographers use them to make large cities look like toy models. Architectural photographers use tilt-shift lenses to eliminate the perspective distortions that sometimes give buildings the appearance of falling over. You might not know what these lenses look like, but you probably have seen their effects. One of the fancier lenses in the world of SLR and digital SLR (DSLR) photography is the tilt-shift lens. Tutorial compliments of “Make:” magazine.
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